Did some car maintenance tonight in preparation for a
roadtrip to Montana.  (new snow tires, oil change, oil cooler gaskets changed,
top off fluids etc)

But mainly, I figured that since the last time I was there
at xmas it was 30 degrees below zero, I should do something
about my handbrake cables which always freeze up when
it's cold out.   I had the cables already (they're cheap),
so it was just a matter of getting motivated.
Since we recently determined that the Bentley really doesn't
tell you how to do this, I figured I'd take some pics and
document the process..

So.. here you go.
http://www.houseofthud.com/gallery/handbrake

It's certainly a DIY job.  Only tricky bit was getting
that little push on fastener undone (requires some bending
and bending back later).

If you look at the pics you'll see there was
MAJOR corrosion on one of the cables.  Normally the ends
would be encased in plastic.  Looks like the plastic tore
through and the cable underneath started rusting.
That cable was very stiff and probably would cause the
pad to drag sometimes even when not frozen.

Anyway, the improvement in handbrake feel is enormous
and now that it's back on and properly adjusted, I can quite
easily lock up the rear tires at any speed.  I remember
being able to do that when the car was new, but haven't
been able to do it for many thousands of miles.

On a side note.. When I was replacing the oil cooler gaskets/O rings
I took a picture of the old one and new..
http://www.houseofthud.com/cartech/oldnewgaskets.jpg
The old one was squished flat into the groove, and pretty much
worthless.  Had been drooling oil all down the front and bottom of
the engine for the last 10k miles or so.

        ian

Where do you live??  Out west?

I've got to tell ya that just pulling the cables out doesn't work 97%
of the time.  Yes, there are some that are simple to do.

All of you who do try this don't be surprised if the metal tube pulls
out w/ the e-brake cable.  If the cable doesn't 'just pull out' try
using a pair of channel locks/pliers to twist the cable end (don't over
force it because the end can snap off inside the tube...its a pain)
that is in the metal tube.  This will help free it if there is any
rust built up at the end of the tube.  If this is the case try and
clean the tube up as best you can.  At work I use a pneumatic grinder
which works great.  There are times where a hot wrench is needed
(ie TORCH).  Heat the end of the tube up while pulling on the cable.
The cable will come out fairly easy.  You'll need to clean the tube
out because some residual plastic will have been left in there.  Yes,
you may char some of the undercoating so be carefull.

There are two types of E-brake cables.  Plastic or metal ends (that
go into the metal tube through the body) depending on the manufacture.
I've seen both styles from Germany.  Either one you get put some grease
on the end before putting the cable back in.  If you plan on keeping
the car another 6-7 years you may have to replace them again.  I do
this because I know I'll see the same car back in again.  It's your
call though.  If you get the plastic end style and cannot clean the
metal tube out or you're having problems putting it back in all you
have to do is take your pocket knife and trim the end down (long ways)
till it'll fit back in.  It won't take much.  Don't shorten it.

In adjusting it inside the car, shoot for a total of 3 clicks when
you pull the handle.  Tighten evenly.

chris
'95 Jetta GLX

Refer to Ians' pics for help: 

On a side note, I am planning on replacing the e-brake cables (using
instructions on Ian's site). For those that have done this, is it
necessary to remove the wheels to do so, or should there be enough room to
work with them on?

Wheels need to come off.  Did mine a few months ago.  I thought I could tighten the slack under the console, but as it turned out, one of the cables failed.  I replaced both.  At $15 each, I said why not.
Peace,
Steve Steele
98 GTI-VR6