Eric (and anyone else interested)-

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you w/ how-to for aftermarket
lines. Basically goes like this: Removing your wheels and putting your
car on stands will help but is not necessary. Start by going around and
making sure all of your bleeder valves will open (1/4 turn should do and
close them). These can be located by looking for a small post with a
black rubber cap at the top rear of each caliper. Assuming these all
open and close easily, you are ready for step #2. Now chose a caliper
and start removing the flexible rubber line going into it. Be careful of
the brake fluid because part of it's purpose is being a dessicant
(removes water) and if you get it on your skin most likely the next
fluid you will contact is grease or oil and this will be soaked into
your skin, staining it for at least a week!!! Also, I would advise
covering any open holes left ftom the removal to keep from getting any
debris into the hydraulic runers. You can now put the new line in place;
you may have to reuse some of the stock acc. like the rubber grommets
and maybe the banjo bolts in the front. The easiest way to get the
grommets off the old line is to cut the line in half :(. Another
warning- do not put too much stress on any rigid hydraulic lines. In the
rear, the lines running from the floor pan to the trailing arm (furthest
forward of the 2 rear lines on ea. side) may not fit just right so some
'creative' grinding might be necessary. If you have to get artistic,
please, grind the brackets and NOT the lines. Once all lines are in
place you may bleed the brakes; VW recomends a presure bleed (special
tools required) but we just used the good ol' fashion '2guys and a brake
pedal' method. Once the brakes are bled, start the engine to activate
all the pumps, DO NOT DRIVE ANYWHERE YET, if the brakes get real squishy
they need to be bled again. At a standstill your brakes should feel
stock and even just tooling around town. The only time I notice a
difference is when I really push it. The ABS no-longer goes thump; it is
now a very precise chatter and barely felt. As always, I am not a
certified mechanic, just shade-tree and YMMV. Sorry 'bout all the
warnings but I would feel bad if anything bad happened because i did not
mention them.

L8R
-Brendon

PS. If any one knows of anything I left out please update this. I am
going from memory here.



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Thomas,

After much internal and external debate over the need for SS brake lines, I
had them put in. Pedal feel firmed up (not as night and day as everyone may
think). I do have to keep an eye on the lines more tho' because of the
possiblity of not seeing wear on the hose under the braids. I also got the
Autotech lines.

Probably no difference, but also had the SS lines done when I replaced all
the rotors with the Velocity Slotted rotors and Ferodo Pads; one of the
best things ever done to the car. Wet braking performance is excellent, and
it seems that the ABS goes on less frequently.

This in combination to the Dunlop SP8000's are highly reccomend. Next stop:
Koni Adjustables and springs.



At 9:35 AM -0700 10/22/98, Thomas J Venditto wrote:
>I've been considering SS brake lines.
>Has anyone done them?
>Was it worth it?
>How much $$?
>How much trouble?
>Comments, suggestions.
>BTW, I checked the archives.  Only two posts on this.
>TomV


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