> Date: Sat, 7 Mar 1998 16:36:43 -0500
> From: Steve Thompson <was: st140vi@wcnet, now: stevet@toast>
> Subject: [gti-vr6] Oil pressure sender
>
> Anyone put on the dual sender for an oil pressure gauge themselves?

I didn't exactly do it myself, but Todd Sager and I did it to my car a
couple of weeks ago.

> I know I need to take off the filter housing, but are they any secrets
> or tips that would help.

Yes, the filter housing/flange is held on by *three* bolts.  You can see
and get at the two lower ones without much trouble.  The third (upper)
one, however, is a total PITA.   You can't see it, and you can't get to
it easily.   I suspect the right way to do it is with one of those
"special" sockets that has a 1/4"-drive universal permanently attached,
plus a good selection of 1/4"-drive extensions and an addditional
1/4"-drive universal.  Getting this bolt out is only about 25% of the
battle, getting it back in even worse because your new dual-sender will
obstruct access to the bolt even more.   Anyway, we did not have the
special socket, and managed to do it with only one universal, but I
don't recommend that;  I think we spent about 2 hours doing the whole
job.  I think you could cut that time in half and reduce the frustration
factor by 75% if you buy the right tools first.  One thing that did help
is that we had another VR6 engine that had been removed from a car, so
we could easily see what had to be done.

A couple of hints:

* Put the top bolt back in its hole in the flange before you screw in
the sender.
* You can just barely see the head of the top bolt from an obscure angle
from the driver's side of the car; you can't get tool on it from there,
but a second pair of eyes here can help get the socket on the bolt.
* You'll want to extend the blue/black wire that was connected to the
low-pressure switch that you're replacing and attach both wires to the
new sender's terminals before you put the whole assembly back on the
engine.
* Look at the picture at 

Notice the wiring already attached and the upper bolt already in the hole.
Looking at this picture again myself, it apprears ND does two additional
things to make the job easier that we didn't think of:
1) My car had a standard hex-head bolt at the top of the flange.  It
looks like ND has replaced that with a socket-head (allen) bolt.  It's
probably easier to get an allen bit past the new sender than it is be to
get a socket in there.
2) My car had the low pressure switch on the other side (which is also
where the Bentley shows it) and that's where we put the dual-sender.  It
looks to me like ND has removed both switches and put the sender where
the high pressure switch was, then put the high pressure switch back in
where the low pressure switch was.  Again, this may ease re-installation
of the whole assembly.  Or maybe VW has swapped switch locations at some
point, or this picture has gotten "flipped", I don't know.  (Tim?)

> I'm planning on doing it myself next time I change
> the oil, but If it's that much of a pain in the ass I'll pay someone to do it.

The problem is finding someone who's done it already.   Aside from a few
specialized VW "tuners" your chances are real slim.  Even Todd hadn't
done this before, and anyone that hasn't will likely get just as
frustrated as you would doing it yourself.

> When I say pain in the ass I mean like putting on a front sway bar, or changing
> the starter on an automatic A1, two things I'll never do again.

I've never done a starter on an automatic, but have heard how much fun
this is supposed to be.   What's hard about putting on a front swaybar?
I don't recall this being especially difficult the last time I did it,
but that was a *long* time ago (Neuspeed bar on an '84 GTI).

Best,

-Uwe-

Uwe Ross <uwe.ross@pobox> wrote:
>* Look at the picture at
>http://www.newdimensions.com/Pictures/vr6sen1.jpg Notice the wiring
>already attached and the upper bolt already in the hole.  Looking at
>this picture again myself, it apprears ND does two additional things
>to make the job easier that we didn't think of: 1) My car had a
>standard hex-head bolt at the top of the flange.  It looks like ND
>has replaced that with a socket-head (allen) bolt.  It's probably
>easier to get an allen bit past the new sender than it is be to get
>a socket in there.

Yes Chris my master tec said that he replaces the bolt with a allen
one to make it easy to reinstall just like you thought.

> 2) My car had the low pressure switch on the
>other side (which is also where the Bentley shows it) and that's
>where we put the dual-sender.  It looks to me like ND has removed
>both switches and put the sender where the high pressure switch was,
>then put the high pressure switch back in where the low pressure
>switch was. Again, this may ease re-installation of the whole
>assembly.  Or maybe VW has swapped switch locations at some point,
>or this picture has gotten "flipped", I don't know.  (Tim?)

great job Uwe !! Yes we swapped them and for the reason you said.
I could not believe Chris when he said you really should just remove
the housing to do it. Then he showed me why and I would tend to agree
now.  With your great instructions and our picture anyone should be
able to do it now.

turbotim@newdimensions
http://www.newdimensions.com/

> Subject: [gti-vr6] oilsending unit
> From: VeeAreSix <VeeAreSix@aol>
> Date: Fri, 22 May 1998 18:31:01 EDT
>
> Has anybody installed the ND dual oil sending unit? OK so which OEM sender did
> it replace? The blue or the brown?

It replaced the Blue, low pressure (0.15-0.35 bar) switch.

However, re-attaching the oil filter flange to the engine block is
easier if you do the following:

1) Replace the upper hex bolt with a socket-head bolt of the same size.
It is much easier to slip an allen bit by the new large sender when
re-tightening this bolt than it would be to get a socket in there.   If
you can find an allen bit with a "ball driver" end on it, that would be
even better.

2) Put this bolt back in the hole in the oil filter flange assembly
*before* you install the dual-sender.  It's a bear to get in there after
the dual sender is installed.

3) Pull *both* pressure switches.  Put the brown one where the blue one
was.  Then install the large dual-sender where the brown switch was.

FYI:  I deduced these tricks after Todd@AWE and I did mine.  It wasn't
fun.  Afterwards, I looked at ND's picture at
http://www.newdimensions.com/Pictures/vr6sen1.jpg and started to
wonder... I asked Tim, and he confirmed that they use all of these
"tricks" to make reinstallation easier.

-Uwe-

After putting it off for almost a year, I decided to put my dual sender on
today. The reason our cars don't come with a dual sender, is because they
don't fit. Whoever designed that oil housing flange, had no intention of
putting that fat SOB sender on it.
The top bolt wasn't that hard to get out. I reached it from the top with a
few extensions and a universal socket, to form an "L". It was real
frustrating at first because I couldn't tell if the socket was staying on
the nut. After a few tries, I reached up from the bottom, touched it with my
finger and realized it was out about 3/4". I unscrewed it the rest of the
way with my fingers. I don't think it was on very tight to begin with. The
two bottom bolts were easy. I think the bottom bolts are the important ones,
because the two openings are right between them.
I stopped by my "car guys" today to see if they had an allen bolt I could
use to replace the top bolt. They couldn't find an allen bolt, instead they
gave me a cv joint bolt, and let me borrow the torx socket for it.
Hey Uwe,  how the phuck did you and Todd get your flange back on using the
original bolt!? Once the dual sender is in place, there is no "straight
shot" to that bolt, I could barely get the torx wrench buy it. Because the
torx socket was a bit longer than a regular socket I had to put the top bolt
in from the bottom, HUGE PITA.
In the Uwe's archived e-mail, he said it took him and Todd 2 hours. I took
me 4 hours of laying on my back, while my knuckles bled. If anyone else is
thinking of doing this, pay someone else to do it, who at least has a lift.
Steve
P.S. While at my car guys, (who both drive VW's) I asked them what oil they
were using now. They're the ones who turned me on to Mobil1 5-30 synthetic.
They now use Mobil1 0-30.

>    * Subject: [gti-vr6] Oil pressure sender
>    * From: "Steve Thompson" <stevet@toast>
>    * Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 03:46:00 -0400
>
> After putting it off for almost a year, I decided to put
> my dual sender on today. ....

> Hey Uwe,  how the phuck did you and Todd get your flange back on using the
> original bolt!?

It wasn't easy!  It helped to have an extra set of eyes and an extra
pair of hands looking and reaching in from the side where you can
actually sorta see the bolt because you can't see it from where you have
to hold the wrenches.

> Once the dual sender is in place, there is no "straight
> shot" to that bolt, I could barely get the torx wrench by it.
> Because the torx socket was a bit longer than a regular socket
> I had to put the top bolt in from the bottom, HUGE PITA.

Yup!

> In the Uwe's archived e-mail, he said it took him and Todd 2 hours.
> I took me 4 hours of laying on my back, while my knuckles bled.
> If anyone else is thinking of doing this, pay someone else to do it,
> who at least has a lift.

We did the whole thing from the bottom.   On a lift.

[...] 14 lines deleted

-Uwe-

I would have to guess there is a bad connection somewhere. I added about 4"
of extra wire to make sure there was enough to stay on the sender. I think
you can get to the wires from the top, in the factory loom. I'd cut them in
half, splice a couple of temporary pieces in, and connect to them gauge and
see if that worked.
And/OR..
Next time you change your oil filter, look up there and make sure something
isn't blocking the sender.

        Steve

>However, after the install, and feeding the wires and such. My guage worked
>for a mere day, and then died. Every once in a while, the needle would
>move. So, to this day after having the sender installed a year and a half
>ago, I still don't have an oil pressure guage.
>
>Any ideas on this one? I have double checked that the wire is on the
>correct terminal on the sender (I believe its the lower pressure one; brown
>one if I reckon correct)

I read the FAQ several times and have received lots of tips on
installing a VDO oil pressure sender.  Last night I got a Bentley
Service Manual, and it shows a small figure-8 shaped gasket between the
oil filter housing and the engine block.  Bentley claims "always
replace".

My car is very new, but I will replace the gasket if it's cheap and
in-stock at my local dealer.  Any thoughts?  Overkill?  Necessary??  Any
leaks if not replaced?

Jon Maddux
99 GTI VR6 Ginster Yellow

Ok guys, here is a professional opinion (more like fact) concerning engine /
trans gaskets. All of the repair information says *never reuse any gaskets*.
We don't need to know how many of you reused the old gaskets and got away
with it. The fact remains, when you buy any part that is installed with a
gasket, buy a new gasket with it. If you want to do the job twice, then go
ahead and reuse the old one.
Lets kill this thread, please.

Bob C -

>I read the FAQ several times and have received lots of tips on
>installing a VDO oil pressure sender.  Last night I got a Bentley
>Service Manual, and it shows a small figure-8 shaped gasket between the
>oil filter housing and the engine block.  Bentley claims "always
>replace".

I did not replace mine.  But I did go buy one from the dealer afterward in
case it ever developed a leak (it hasn't).  Make sure you bring a small jar
of Vasoline with you.  That little rubber double O-ring cost me ~$18.00.  A
bit steep for an O-ring, but still good insurance, just in case.

Be sure to get an allen-headed bolt to install in place of the upper of the
three oil filter cannister flange mounting bolts.  Cuz there ain't no way
you're gonna get a socket in there after you install the pressure sender.

Good luck.

BOR
97 Windsor bluerple GTI-VR6
Autometer mini-ultralite oil pressure (100psi), voltmeter and tranny temp gauges

I don't know how things get added to the FAQ, but this is useful
information for anyone who wants to install an oil pressure or oil
temperature gauge into their VR6.  Hopefully this post will find its
way.

There is already a lot of information on how to remove the oil filter
housing and install an oil pressure sender in the FAQ.  I followed the
hints that were given there, and I will not bother repeating them.  As
expected, the upper bolt on the housing is a bear to tighten.  I ended
up grinding down my 1/4" drive 13mm socket.  I ground it so its length
is approximately 9/16".  This allowed me to re-use the VW socket-head
bolt rather than switch to a hex head.  I attached my modified 13mm
socket to my 10" 1/4" drive extension and used my smallest 1/4" drive
ratchet to tighten the bolt.  I fed the socket and extension in above
the hoses that go to and from the AC compressor onto the bolt head.
There is just enough room between the compressor and the passenger side
fan to operate the ratchet.  The Bentley manual gives a torque value for
the 3 bolts that hold the housing as 25 Nm.  I doubt it is possible to
fit a torque wrench into there, and I tightened as much as I could with
the short ratchet.  This worked for me.  If you attempt this install,
you are welcome to borrow my modified 13mm socket, as long as you are
cool about returning it.

You want to avoid having to remove the oil filter housing more than once
at all costs.  There is a small gasket between the oil filter housing
and the engine block.  It is VW part number 021-115-446-A.  Retail price
is $18.51.  I bought mine at Timmons VW in Long Beach for less.  This is
still a lot of money for what looks like a $0.25 gasket, but in
hindsight I would quickly pay someone $50 to avoid having to do this job
over.  Don't take chances.  Replace the gasket.  Oil it lightly before
you install it.  Also, the VDO catalog says "do not use teflon tape or
pipe sealant on the sender threads".  The thinking here is it will
interfere with the ground connection.  Again, you do not want a leak and
you do not want to do this job twice.  I installed half of the sender
threads, lightly coated the remaining threads with Great White Pipe
Joint Compound, and tightened the sender to the correct torque.  The
Bentley manual gives 25 Nm for the VW sender, VDO also gives 25 Nm for
their sender.  The Great White Compound is available at Home Depot.  The
can says "withstands up to 10,000 psi on liquids from -50F to +500F".
It is designed for use with oil.  I used little enough pipe compound to
still get a good ground connection.

I had previously installed an oil pressure gauge, oil temperature gauge,
and voltmeter in my 318ti:
http://home.earthlink.net/~jonmaddux/318ti.html  Even though the MFA has
oil temp, I had gotten used to seeing 3 gauges.  Since I already had the
parts, I installed an oil temperature gauge into my VR6.  Rather than
use the ND/etc. plastic 2-guage panel, I deleted the factory cupholder
and built a custom panel.  I built my panel out of 1/4" plywood and
covered it in black grain leather:

http://home.earthlink.net/~jonmaddux/vwpanel.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~jonmaddux/vwconsole.jpg

We built the same panel and installed it on my brother's 96 8V GTI.  I
have 1 extra panel, it is ready to install.  If you are interested, make
me an offer.  Note in vwconsole.jpg the black button for my remote
garage door opener and the second alarm LED.  As expected, the VDO oil
temperature gauge (located at drain plug) lags behind the MFA oil
temperature reading (located on top of oil filter housing).  After about
30 minutes, they have identical readings.  It's still nice to have the
second gauge so you can use the MFA for other data.

Also, it is well-known in the BMW community that BCI Performance
Warehouse is the place to buy VDO products.  Maybe the VW community is
unaware of this.  BCI will discount every VDO product by 40%. This is
much cheaper than ND or anywhere else.  The catch is they have poor
inventory, so it usually takes 2-3 weeks to get things.  BCI's phone
number is (404) 522-3497.  Ask for Jim Summerville.  Also, you can get a
VDO catalog directly from VDO by calling (540) 665-0100.  The VDO part
numbers I used for my 99 VR6 are:

Oil pressure sender, 150 psi, M10x1K:  360023, $27.00
Oil temperature sender, 300 F, M14x1.5,  323055, $20.82
Oil pressure gauge, Vision Series, 150 psi:  350108, $21.90
Oil temperature gauge, Vision Series, 300 F:  310106, $21.90
Voltmeter, Vision Series:  332103, $21.90
Push-on connectors, with crimp terminals, 3 reqd:  240026, about $3ea.

Make sure you use oil-resistant wire in all your installations.  I hope
this info is helpful.

Jon Maddux
99 GTI VR6 Ginster Yellow

I forgot to add this to my last post on oil pressure and oil temperature
sender installations.

The VDO oil temperature sender replaces the stock oil drain plug.  It is
made from a very soft metal (brass?).  The correct torque value for the
VDO oil temperature sender is 12 ft-lbs.  This is not much.  Many BMW
owners have over-torqued the sender and sheared off the head.  This
turns into an ugly mess of drilling and thread repair kits.  You still
use the VW crush washer with the VDO sender.

Jon Maddux
99 GTI VR6 Ginster Yellow

For the last 2 hours I have completely torn down the front
end of my car.  The whole bumper assembly is laying next to the
GTi now.  This is something only a mechanically inclined person
should do.  I have about a billion clamps, assorted nuts and
bolts, and who knows what else laying on my garage floor now.

    The condensor and radiator are still attached, sort of, but
moved aside, sort of. I didn't want to purge the a.c. or have
to drain the radiator so they are just hanging there with the
lines intact, sort of.

    Your probably wondering why any fool would do this just to
install the sending unit, right?  Well it happens that I have
the AMS blower and it gets its oil from the passenger side switch
on the oil filter housing.  There is a T fitting on that switch
that allows the blower line and existing switch to work.  There
is way too much going on to "simply" remove the filter housing.

    The million dollar question is: Is it o.k. if I place the VDO
sender (dual) in place of the driver side switch then shit can
one of the wires. Or do I run one of the VDO terminals to the
gauge (boost) then hook the stock wire to the other terminal on
the sender?  The blue wire (low pressure) is on the driver side
switch right now.  Thats the wire I want to incorporate with the
VDO sender.  I think.

    I wouldn't be so pissed off but I scratched the phuck out
my car trying to do this crap.  Uugh!!

Chris
'97 VR6 (in a billion parts edition)

p.s. I now know where all the horns and
     temp sender is.

> Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 23:54:32 -0800
> From: Christopher Perry <cperry2@home>
> Subject: [gti-vr6] oil pressure sender install (long)
>
>     Your probably wondering why any fool would do this just to
> install the sending unit, right?  Well it happens that I have
> the AMS blower and it gets its oil from the passenger side switch
> on the oil filter housing.  There is a T fitting on that switch
> that allows the blower line and existing switch to work.  There
> is way too much going on to "simply" remove the filter housing.

Removing the filter housing isn't so simple anyway.  And reinstalling it is
even worse. :-)  But for most of us, it's probably easier than taking the
whole front end of the car apart...!

>     The million dollar question is: Is it o.k. if I place the VDO
> sender (dual) in place of the driver side switch then shit can
> one of the wires. Or do I run one of the VDO terminals to the
> gauge (boost) then hook the stock wire to the other terminal on
> the sender?  The blue wire (low pressure) is on the driver side
> switch right now.  Thats the wire I want to incorporate with the
> VDO sender.  I think.

No, do not "shitcan" one of the wires.  The VDO dual sender has a replacement
for the low-pressure switch built it!  (That's why it's called a "Dual
Sender").   You connect the wire that used to go to the low pressure switch to
one of the terminals on the dual sender, and connect your new oil pressure
gauge to the other terminal (the one marked "G").  This is the only way to add
a pressure gauge and still keep the stock oil pressure warning system
functional.

Note:  If someone else is doing this the "conventional way" (i.e. with the
filter housing removed), reinstalling the filter housing is easier if you
remove both factory switches, put the high-pressure switch where the low
pressure switch was, and put the VDO sender where the high pressure switch
was.  Reinstallation is also easier if you replace the hex bolt at the top of
the filter housing with an allen bolt.

-Uwe-

Uwe replied-

> No, do not "shitcan" one of the wires.  The VDO dual sender has a replacement
> for the low-pressure switch built it!  (That's why it's called a "Dual
> Sender").   You connect the wire that used to go to the low pressure switch to
> one of the terminals on the dual sender, and connect your new oil pressure
> gauge to the other terminal (the one marked "G").  This is the only way to add
> a pressure gauge and still keep the stock oil pressure warning system
> functional.
>
Uwe, I'm surprised you said this.  Of course this isn't 'the only way to add
a fuel pressure gauge'!  I added a brass T-fitting  to reconnect both stock
sensors and my Autometer pressure sender.  Works like a charm.  Its been a
while since I did this, so I don't recall the exact configuration.  I'll
check it tonight if anyone's interested.

To echo a previous post; add a few inches of wire to the stock senders to
make the job easier.  And of course, the allen bolt change on the upper-most
of the three oil filter housing bolts.

BOR

> Note:  If someone else is doing this the "conventional way" (i.e. with the
> filter housing removed), reinstalling the filter housing is easier if you
> remove both factory switches, put the high-pressure switch where the low
> pressure switch was, and put the VDO sender where the high pressure switch
> was.  Reinstallation is also easier if you replace the hex bolt at the top
> of
> the filter housing with an allen bolt.
>
> - -Uwe-

>    The million dollar question is: Is it o.k. if I place the VDO
>sender (dual) in place of the driver side switch then shit can
>one of the wires. Or do I run one of the VDO terminals to the
>gauge (boost) then hook the stock wire to the other terminal on
>the sender?  The blue wire (low pressure) is on the driver side
>switch right now.  Thats the wire I want to incorporate with the
>VDO sender.  I think.
>
>    I wouldn't be so pissed off but I scratched the phuck out
>my car trying to do this crap.  Uugh!!
>
>Chris
>'97 VR6 (in a billion parts edition)

Chris,

OK.  Sounds like you have a situation here.  First of all, I shipped
your panel yesterday.  You are going to kick my ass when you see the
6-page how-to-install-everything I wrote up and included with it.  I
will buy you several beers as pennance if we ever meet in person.  You
are in AZ right??

At any rate, you cannot skip either of the VW oil pressure sender wires.
Youu cannot splice them together either, that will cause a short.  I
have not checked the Bentley manual, but VW uses both (2) pressure
sender wires for some reason.  Stoopid if you ask me.  I can check the
purpose if you want.  You CAN switch the position of the oil pressure
senders.  Makes no difference.  Most of us put the VDO sender on the
driver's side to make it easier to get to the topmost bolt.  If you want
to do it the other way, no problem.  One terminal on the VDO oil
pressure sender goes to the VDO guage, the other gets the VW wire.  It
will help to splice in a longer wire.  The VW one is VERY short.  I do
not know how the boost gauge works.  I ASSume the sender fits in-line on
a vaccuum hose somewhere.  I do not think it is related to the oil
pressure setup at all.

After I finished the install, in hindsight I would add 2 more VDO parts:
a machined pressure sender adapter angle and a 24" pressure sender hose
fitting.  Cost = ~$30.  This would let you put the bulky VDO sender
somewhere other than the top of the filter housing.  If anyone wants the
part numbers, let me know.  I used them on my 318ti.  Chris, if you are
totally convinced you are screwed with the supercharger, this route is
for you.

Did you replace the $18 gasket between the housing and the block??  You
would hate to have to do all this work twice.  FYI, you would be amazed
at how much faster you can do it again.  I bet I can do one in less than
1 hour now (after about a 10 hour learning curve!).

If you want, call me at home.  It is much easier to answer this stuff
real-time.  Do you have my number??

Jon Maddux
99 A3 GTI VR6 Ginster Yellow

Hi Scott -

Funny you mention that... I replaced my oil pressure switches just last
week, for the very same reason!  It is a bit of a pain, but it can be done
by a shadetree mechanic as long as you have the right tools handy.  It took
me about an hour and a half.

Even though the low-pressure switch was the one that was apparently leaking,
I replaced both of them since they were only $6 each from the dealer.

The key is to remove the oil filter housing, and once it's out, replace the
switches while the housing is out.  The housing is held in with three 13mm
bolts; the lower two are EASY to get to, but the upper one will require (1)
removing the allen bolt from the lower front engine mount, (2) jacking up
the engine a few inches to get some clearance, (3) a 6" extension for your
ratchet and 13mm socket, (4) some luck, and (5) lots of curse words.

First, you might want to check out these pages from the library:
http://www.gti-vr6.net/library/engine/leaking_oil_press_sender.html
http://www.gti-vr6.net/library/engine/installing_oil_pressure_sender.html
http://www.gti-vr6.net/library/engine/removing_oil_filter_housing.html
http://www.gti-vr6.net/library/engine/gauges.html
http://www.newdimensions.com/Pictures/vr6sen1.jpg

Here is my recollection of the procedure:

- Go to the dealer and buy the two switches (~$6 each) and if you want, a
new oil-filter-housing-to-block gasket (~$20!!!).  This one looks like a
figure-eight.  It's perhaps more accurately described as a double-o-ring.

- Remove plastic guard above radiator.  This is the one that covers the gap
between the upper rad support and the intake manifold.  You'll need it off
so you have better access to the front of the engine. (3 8mm bolts, if I
recall).

- Remove the front lower engine mount bolt (8mm allen bolt, if I recall).

- Jack up the engine.  I know you're not supposed to do it, but I used a
block of wood between my floor jack and the oil pan.  Don't go to far, or
the lower power steering hose will be stressed.

- Remove the two lower 13mm bolts holding on the filter housing.  This is
best done from below.

- Check 
get a feel of where the upper bolt is on the housing.  Use a 6" extension on
a 13mm socket to try to engage the upper bolt.  This is best done from
above.  You'll be doing this by feel, since you can't see the bolt directly.
Once the socket is on, snap the ratchet on the extension and remove the
bolt.

- Drop the housing enough to remove the three wires from the three sensors
(high and low oil pressure, oil temperature).  Remember which goes where!

- You should now be able to remove the housing.

- The sensors require a 24mm (IIRC) deep socket, or box wrench.  They come
with integral aluminum crush washers, so you don't need new sensor gaskets.

- As they say, installation is the reverse, etc. etc.  If you install a new
figure-8 gasket, be sure to scrape the old one off the block.

Good luck!
- Bob T.