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Hey dudes,
recently you inquired about the details of my plug change last weekend.
Here's the deal:
I used NGK plugs. The specific part number varies with the year of your
car. The 95s use BKR-5-EKU. have a 96, so I got a different number as per
the NGK book at the auto parts store. I don't have the number handy, but it
was different. If you need it I can dig it up. I'm not super sure I got the
right ones, as my check engine light has been on (this may be from other
sources).
Tools you'll need: a good ratchet set with the standard size spark plug
socket. (it doesn't require the oversize one like some cars do). You'll
need a 6" - 8" straight extension for your ratchet wrench though, as the
plugs are *really* far down there. And, of course, you'll need the VW spark
plug tool, which can be found handily clipped to the bottom of your
hood-support rod.
First, you must wait until the engine is thoroughly cooled, as the special
VW tool used to remove the OEM connectors is plastic, and will become
disfigured (and un-usable) if you use it on a hot engine. Just ask
list-member Larry Phelps about that one. If the engine's cold, you should
have no problem.
I did one plug at a time (connector off, old plug out, new plug in,
connector back on) before moving onto the next plug. 4 out of the 6 are
pretty easy, but the two that are closest to the front of the car (and to
the right) are more difficult.
The trick is to master the action of the VW tool used for removing the OEM
end connectors without damaging them. Anyone could just yank them off, but
then they'd be damaged. The tool has several grooves at the bottom and
slots. Start with the plug farthest away and to the left. This is the
easiest one to get to. You can almost see where the tool will hook on
before you start. This makes it easier.
The tool must go all the way down. Then, you twist it a 1/4-1/2 a turn. It
has thus "grabbed" the tab it needs to hook onto, to ensure a successful
removal. Then gently, but firmly, pull up on it. You should have the end of
the wire (with the OEM connector) come up with it. If not, retry the tool
alignment and the 1/4 or 1/2 turn. It's a little tricky, but take your
time, it'll work.
Also, when installing the new plugs, make sure to tape (or affix in another
manner) the ratchet extension to the spark plug ratchet socket. Before I
did that I nearly got the ratchet socket stuck down there after a new plug
went in. Ooops. I got it out, and then it struck me: tape the phucker!
If you have a small can of compressed air, use it! If not, buy one! As when
you first remove the OEM connecter end, spray the compressed air in there
*before* you remove the old plug. This helps prevent getting sand and crap
from dropping down on the cylinder head. A definite no-no. The sand's
there too, I saw it!
Once the old plug is out, slowly set the new one and tighten to specified
torque.
The specified torque is 18 ft.-lbs.
aqn
Mine were "pre-gapped", but if yours are not, don't forget to "gap"
the plugs. The bentley manual says that the proper gapping for the 95 plugs
mentioned above is .7mm.
That's about it. Make sure you have PLENTY OF LIGHT. The OEM connector ends
go back on in a reverse manner to their removal. Set the tab into a locked
position within the VW tool, lower it in there, press down firmly, and then
twist (opposite direction) to release. Voila!!
One Caveat: When mine was finished and I took it out for a stroll, I nearly
pooped on my nice leather seats. The car ran CRAPPY, was missing and the
check engine light was flashing. WTF?? Turns out I had not securely pushed
one of the ends on, and it was loose, hence the misfiring, etc. Once that
was done, way cool.
Noticed a nice restoration of some power that I did not know was gone!!!
Feel free to write if you have additional Qs. Later hombres.....
----------------------------
Wally G.
wally@li
"Ev'ry man dies. Bot nut ev'ry man truly lives...."
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