OK. Direct from page 24a-6 of the 1996 edition, here's how to short the
connecter to get the trouble codes.
There's 16 sockets on the connecter, right? 2 rows of 8. they're numbered,
left to right and top to bottom, 1-8 and 9-16.
To Display DTCs:
1. With the ignition key on, use a jumper wire to connect terminal 4
(ground) to terminal 15 (L-wire) for _2.5 SECONDS_ and remove the jumper
wire.
2. After one blink of the MIL light (that's the Check Engine Light, folks),
the first 4-digit DTC will be displayed. Approximately one second later, the
MIL will blink the first digit, then pause, blink the second digit, then
pause, and so on.

(Note: I did this, and here's how it goes: it blinks once to let you know
it's about to start, and then it blinks the first digit kinda close
together, like blinkblinkblink, then it pauses a second, and does the second
one, again kinda fast, blinkblink or however many.)

	

[[ OK, more clarification! I have "drawn" up a diagram to show the flashing sequence of the MIL light during this process. aqnpanix ]]

3. Once the first DTC has been displayed, reconnect the jumper wire for _2.5
SECONDS_ and then remove it. The second DTC code (if present) will be
displayed.
4. Repeat step 3 until no more codes are displayed (DTC 4-4-4-4 displayed)
NOTE: the 4-4-4-4 code will be represented by four long blinks.
5. Turn the ignition key off. Erase the DTC codes once all testing and
repairs have been made.

OK, I'll start typing in the codes and REALLY abbreviated descriptions.
Someone else will have to type in the erase procedure. And get yer own damn manual.
4444-no problems
1231-Vehicle speed sensor. Missing/bad signal, VSS damaged/faulty, speedometer bad.
2111-RPM sensor. Ignore. this means you're doing the test with the engine off.
2113-Camshaft Position Sensor. Missing/bad signal, wiring or sensor damaged/faulty.
2212-Throttle Position Sensor. OK, I'm just gonna say "usual causes" and
it'll mean, same as 2113, but change the name of the bad item to the current
one, OK? And I'll list additional stuff.
2312-Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor. Usual causes.
2142-Knock Sensor 1. Usual causes, or mounting bolt loose.
2144-Knock Sensor 2. Same.
2342-Heated Oxygen Sensor. No signal, circuit may be open.
2412-Intake air temperature sensor. Usual causes.
2234-Battery Voltage. under 10 or over 16 w/engine running.
2231-Idle Air Control. Wrong speed or too rich or lean. Whack the thing
and/or check for leaks in tubes.
2141-Knock Sensor Control. If the sensor's all right, then the ECM (computer) is hosed.
2341-Oxygen Sensor Control. Check every single part of the exhaust,
injection, and vacuum systems.
2214-Maximum engine speed reached. Bad signal or incorrect downshift. Learn to drive, dude.
2314-Engine to Transmission Electrical connection. Auto. Trans ONLY. Check
the wire from ECM pin 18 and TCM (transmission control module) pin 28 for grounds.
2243-Fuel Consumption Signal. ECM wire on pin51 shorted to instrument panel
connector T1e.
2324-Mass Air Flow Sensor. Usual cause, or large intake leak.
2413-Mixture control adjustment. Too lean or rich, check every moving part
in the engine compartment.
2411-EGR temp sensor. usual causes.
3434-Heated Oxy sensor relay. VR6 ONLY. Check circuit.
4311-Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Relay. Check wires and relay.
4313-Ditto, but a valve instead of relay.
4332-ECM Final Output Stage. Wow. First check the connections to the ECM
itself. Then check EVERY SINGLE THING ON THE ENGINE that hooks up to a wire
of any sort. I was exaggerating the other times I said this, but this is for
real. This is probably a bad ECM.
4343-Evap Canister Purge Regulator Valve. usual causes.
4411-4414 and 4421-4422 (VR6)-Fuel Injectors 1-6. Wiring or injector bad.
But I got this for every single injector on my GLX, and they were fine, so
maybe this code pops up if you run the tests for too long with the motor off.
4431-Idle Air Control Valve. Whack the thing, check for air leaks, check EGR.
4433-Fuel Pump Relay. Check relay or wiring shorted to positive.
4312- EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Valve. Valve or wiring bad.
1111-ECM. Sorry, dude. Replace it.

And that's all that's in my book. If any of you CHEAP BASTARDS that won't
get YOUR OWN BOOK need more specific troubleshooting ideas than these
truncated ones, or need the location of underhood parts, drop me an email.
The book also tells how to troubleshoot each part really well, plus possible
related problems and replacement preocedures. But I will NOT deal with the
wiring diagrams for ANY ONE OF YOU, unless you produce IRREFUTABLE PROOF
that you are GILLIAN ANDERSON.
Thank you all for being such a wonderful audience.
And please: if there's somewhere on the web that has alla this info typed in
already, DON'T tell me. The rest of you will <select all> <copy> and <paste>
into your favorite text editor RIGHT NOW.

-----Original Message-----
From: CONIPCaol <CONIPCaol>
To: gti-vr6dev.tivoli <gti-vr6dev.tivoli>
Cc: jettaglxigtc <jettaglxigtc>
Date: Sunday, November 09, 1997 12:19 PM
Subject: connector shorting method


>Could anyone point me to existing instructions for this method on the
>diagnostic connector?  either in FAQs or a site; I'm awaiting my Bentley
and
>have an intermittent problem.TIA
>

[...]
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In a message dated 3/8/00 10:36:58 PM Eastern Standard Time,
QuuePazworldnet.att writes:

>  I am not trying to disagree with you but I have a 95 VR6 Gti build date is 11/94
>  but it is a 94.  I  have checked the OBD I codes at least 7 times.  Including
>  the over rev code.  I have cleared them as well with the little tool that comes
>  with the car.  It was stuck on the ABS box under the seat.
>
>  Simon O. Quezada
>  San Antonio TX

This was a private e-mail, and I hope Simon doesn't mind the post to the
list.  I stand corrected.  This is the first 1995 Gti that I've heard about
having that "tool" the Bentley talks about (mine is 6/95 build date and
doesn't have the tool).  Blink codes cannot be checked without a VAG
1551/1552 emulator on my car, but apparently early 1995 cars can be.  I
purchased mine in December of 95, and I know other 1995 owners who couldn't
check thier blink codes.  I'd conclude that it was a rolling change somewhere
in M.Y. 1995.  I can't comment on Passats.
Hope this helps!
(of course, you *could* still get the added benefits of the UWE adapter if
you buy from him or me.  :)

Mark Rosenkrantz (shameless commerce division... oh wait! That's on Car Talk!)
Marker510aol

Here are two pics showing the location of the jumpering "tool" in a 1995 VW GTI VR6, view from above. This is the floor under the rear seat bench.





Here are two pics showing what the jumpering tool looks like:

If you can't find the tool, just make a jumper from a couple of small spade connectors and a piece of wire.

This is how to get at the ECU connector in the dash to do the jumpering:




Jumper sockets #4 and #15 together: