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How-to: Tips on installing Euro side "repeater" lights

How-to: Tips on installing Euro side "repeater" lights

From jaymarterols Wed Nov 18 21:39 CST 1998
From: jaymarterols
To: eliewnkhw, JASILVAus.oracle, WickedVR6aol,
Subject: euro side repeater install tips (LONG)
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 18:07:35 -0500
 


I installed Nuespeed "euro side repeater" lights on my car a while back.
The following is not quite an installation manual but more of a "tip
sheet." If you're doing this mod, you already have the instructions that
came with the lights. Use these tips in conjunction with those instructions.

Of course, the usual disclaimers apply. Follow these tips at your own
risk. I'm no expert and can not be held responsible for any damages that
occur to you or your property as a result of your following these
suggestions.

In addition to the light kit, which includes wiring and connectors, you will
need:
-carpenter's level (smaller is better)
-awl or punch
-hammer
-straightened clothes hanger
-drill and bits (bit sizes are specified in the instructions)
-8 mm socket to remove headlights
-screwdriver
-butter knife
-grease pencil (it's like a crayon)
-electrical tape
-touch up paint

If you don't have any of this stuff, don't run out and buy it. I'm sure you
can "make do" with other tools and household items.

Before I did this mod, I considered re-wiring the stock side marker lights
to flash with the turn signals. I read Bob Tillman's directions on how to do
this at: 
Much of the procedure is the same, so it would be a good idea to read Bob's
excellent instructions before starting.

Per Bob's instructions, I removed the headlights and grill to allow easy
access to the turn signal wires. The grill is tricky. Be very careful or
you'll break the little tabs that hold the grill on.
Here are some tips:
1. Pop the hood. (duh)
2. Unscrew the phillips head screws that run across the top of the grill.
3. Use a butter knife or similar flat object to undo the plastic tabs along
the top of the grill. I found it easy to start at one end and work my way
across.
4. Use the butter knife again to undo the plastic tabs across the bottom of
the grill. There are tabs under the headlights that are tough to get to.
Take your time and they'll come loose. Don't force them!
5. Remove the headlights by unscrewing four 8-mm "bolts" for each light and
disconnecting the high- and low- beam wires.
6. Set the lights and grill aside.

Now you're ready for the next step. I made the electrical connections before
I drilled the holes for the lights but you can do it the other way; it
really doesn't matter. Let's assume you're going to drill first.

1. Decide where you want to put the lights. I put mine about 1.5 inches in
front of the door and about 4.5 inches above the side molding. A3 Cabrios
have their Wolfsburg badges higher than this, just below the horizontal
"bulge" in the body. BMWs have their side repeaters much lower, *in* the
side molding. I like the lights behind the wheel, not above it. To each his
own.
2. Once you've picked a spot, mark both sides of the car with a grease
pencil (it'll wipe off later). Double check your measurements and make sure
the lights are in the same relative position on both sides. You're going to
be drilling holes based on your marks.
3. Line up the template, which comes with the lights, with your marks on one
side of the car. Use a level to make sure the template is straight. (You
only get one shot to get this right.) Tape the template in place.
4. Using an awl and hammer, carefully mark the centers of the two holes you
will have to drill. You can do this through the template. Just put the awl
on
the cross-hairs and tap with the hammer to create a little "divet."
5. Remove the template.
6. Take a deep breath and grab your drill. Start with a very small bit and
drill out the center of each hole. Don't push too hard on the drill,
especially at the end. If you push too much, the drill will slam into the
fender, possibly denting your car or chipping the paint.
7. Gradually make the holes larger by increasing the size of the bits you
use. For the large hole (15/16"), you will need a hole saw.
8. Once the holes are done, paint the exposed metal with touch-up paint. The
paint dries quickly so put on as many coats as you can. (It can't hurt.)

OK, the holes are done. Now you've got to connect the wires. On my '98, the
factory wires for the turn signals matched the colors mentioned in
Neuspeed's and Bob Tillman's instructions. If your wires don't seem to
match, you may want to check a Bentley manual or get out a test light and
find the right wires.

Connect the wires per Neuspeed's instructions. You'll have one wire coming
from the turn signal and one ground wire. On the driver's side, I attached
the ground wire to the ground strap going to the hood. On the passenger's
side, I connected it to a bolt on the firewall that holds the coolant lines
going to the heater core. There are probably better grounding points, but my
lights work fine as they are.

Use the straightened coat hanger to snake the wires through the larger of
the two holes you drilled. I ran the "hot" wire back from the turn signal,
right through the fender. The fender is hollow and it was easy to snake the
wire through there.

As depicted in the Neuspeed diagram, the wires have to go through the rubber
boot before you crimp the spade connectors on them.

So, at this point, you've got your hole(s) drilled, your wires have been
snaked through the hole, and the rubber boot and spade connectors are all in
place. You're ready for the last few steps.

1. On my car, I had to bend the spade connectors a little so the rubber boot
would fit inside the fender when the lights were mounted. If I didn't bend
the spade connectors to one side, the light wouldn't snap into place because
the boot was too bulky.
2. Connect the wires to the light.
3. Push the rubber boot *inside* the hole you drilled, so that the tip of it
is just touching the inside of the fender.
4. Insert the light's front post into the small hole and snap the light into
place. If it won't snap in, check the wires and rubber boot. As I said, I
had problems with this but I eventually got it.

That's it. You're done. I hope these tips have been helpful. Let me know if
you have any questions.

-Jason
jaymarterols
'98 Silver Arrow GTI-VR6
Neuspeed side repeater lights, K&N filter in stock airbox (cone & screen
removed), Garrett Chip v.11, Mobil 1, Denon in-dash CD, VW mudflaps,
Testor's Blue brake calipers & engine cover, DRLs disabled.



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