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At 03:37 PM 6/23/98 -0400, Uwe Ross wrote:
>Hmm. This is not covered in the Bentley. But it is covered in the
>W42-011-294-114A "Body Exterior / Body Interior" manual from VWOA. It's
>Repair Group 74. I'd transcribe the text, but I don't think it would
>do you much good without the pictures it refers to.... Well, I'll do
>it anyway:
>
>Removal:
>
>* Remove Backrest (repair group 72)
>* Pry out clips (5) (at rear of seat bottom frame)
>* Straighen Hooking Tabs (7) (at bottom of sides)
>* Disconnect Tensioning wire (4) (at rear corners of cover)
>* Pry cover with rear reinforcement out of seat frame.
>* Disconnect padding wire (2)(under cover) (I don't know if this step is
>necessary -- I hope not, it calls for a VAG 1636 special tool)
>
>Reinstallation:
>
>* First secure cover with clips (5)
>and attach to hookng tabs (7)
>then pull tensioning wire tight and connect.
>
>If I only had a scanner.... You'd have the picture.
OK. Well, yes, in a way it's kind of like the manual says. It's really not
too difficult. Here's the quick scoop:
You need (aside from tools to remove the seat itself) a #2 Phillips
screwdriver, a small slotted screwdriver, an X-acto knife, and a small
needle-nosed pliers.
No VAG tools needed!!!
Remove the seatback. You'll have to remove some trim, etc.
Remove the little "pocket" and the height adjustment, if need be, on the side.
There is a plastic strip that holds the rear of the cover. Pull it loose.
There are a few bent tabs on the frame holding the cover, pry them loose.
Disconnect the tensioning wire from the frame and work the cover loose.
Here's the fun part. There is basically an H pattern of metal wire (like
coat hanger thickness) holding the cover to the pad. This is what keeps it
from sliding and also defines the creases. The ends of the wires are hooked
to attach to a frame embedded in the pad and to other wires. Carefully open
the loop to allow them to be unhooked. Also, there are some circular
(o-shaped) clips that also hold these wires. Remove them and set them
aside. You can pretty easily work them out with needle-nosed pliers. Now,
you can flex the pad enough to unhook all the wires and get the cover off.
Please examine how all this stuff fits together first. It's difficult to
explain, but easy to see.
The wires are run through little "channels" (for lack of the proper word)
sewed in the cover. Now, one at a time, remove the wires from the old seat
cover. You can probably just slide them out, hook and all.
The new cover probably needs the little channel-dealies opened. Just slit
them with the X-acto. So, put the wires in the new cover as you go. Hook
everything back together and into the pad. (It's really that basic!). Put
the o-clips back in the new cover, just as in the old one.
Now you should have a new cover on the pad. Place the pad on the frame and
properly situate it. I ran into a little confusion here. The new cover I
got was not exactly like the old. It has some VERY minor differences in the
cut. No biggie. It is almost ENTIRELY unnoticable. It does however mean
that you shouldn't expect it to fit on just like the old one. The cover is
not cut for any of the things that go through it, like the hinges,
adjuster, tray, etc. My original had a hole for the little "catches" for
the seatback. The new one is cut diagonally there, eliminating the need for
a cut. So, stretch that thing around there the best you can. This allowed
me to line up the cover and know where to cut. I just took the X-acto knife
and cut out the cover right there and let the protrusion pop through. I'd
save the cutout for the little pocket thingy until after, though. Once
everything else is cut, you can then tighten the cable on the cover. I
don't think I got mine quite tight enough, but I think if you worked two
pairs of pliers just right, you could get it done. Push the end of the wire
through the little holes provided on the frame, and loop it so it holds.
Bend the metal tabs back down to hold the edge.
Almost done! Now is a good time to cut the hole for the pocket clip and
screw. After that, start putting the pocket on, then the seatback and trim.
Put the seat in the car and go!
I know this isn't the most thorough report, but it should get a reasonably
handy person through it, as if they couldn't do it themselves. I did this
in under 2 hours on the hood of my Checker. Th price of the cloth cover
('96 DY interior code) was about $61, I think.
--
Josh
xjosh one
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Tue Jun 23 14:37 CDT 1998